The 47-footer takes her kin’s concept of one-level living and expands it. The resulting flexibility of the saloon-helm area is outstanding: Aft, a glass and stainless steel door folds away, and the bulkhead’s expanse of glass flips up and latches firmly into place to the hardtop. Both the sunroof and side windows electrically open to complete the alfresco transformation, allowing those sitting at the saloon’s C-shape set­tee—or in the galley directly’ opposite it—to enjoy the breeze and communi­cate easily with guests in the cockpit. The saloon is also great for movie nights, courtesy of a standard 26-inch LCD TV and Bose Lifestyle stereo sys­tem. And if it gets too hot, just close up the saloon and turn on the standard 24,000-Btu Cruisair air conditioning.

Like the saloon, the cockpit is meant for entertaining. The teak dining table seats six comfortably; lower it via two gas-assisted Besenzoni pedestals and add cushions, and it becomes a two-person sunpad. A wet bar with refrigerator and ice maker are just to port and forward of the settee, while an optional extendable awning can shade the entire cockpit.

To free up space in the cockpit, the standard electric barbecue is transom- mounted and opens aft, so the chef stands on the port side of the swim plat­form when grilling. But because the forward few feet of the platform is fixed, guests can still access the centerline ten­der garage via an electrically activated hatch (where the standard ten-foot Zo­diac RIB is stowed) and use the swim platform, which lowers hydraulically. Standard power on the 4700 is twin 567-hp Caterpillar C7 ACERT diesel in­boards, with the option of twin 715-hp Cat Cl2s.

When properly installed, a windlass requires minimal maintenance.Here’s what you need to know.

First, rinse the windlass thoroughly after every voyage to wash off the salt, let it dry, and cover it. (Many anchor lockers are now equipped with the quick-connect-type freshwater connections for rinsing.) Use the windlass frequently to keep the innards lubricated; crank it over for a few turns at least every couple of weeks. If the windlass sits idle, the oil will drop off the internal gears, some of which are steel and prone to rust. Since the windlass is ex­posed to lots of salt spray, rain, and dampness from wet anchor rods, unpro­tected steel will soon be rusty steel. While you’re at it, manipulate any movable parts—clutches, brakes, chain stoppers, etc. “Use it or lose it” is applicable to windlasses, ton.

At the beginning of the season, disassemble, clean, and lubricate the windlass according to the directions in the manual. This doesn’t require major surgery, just basic field-snipping that anyone can do. Use the type of grease recommended by the manufacturer, being careful to keep friction clutches and brakes lobe-free. Repeat the process at lay-up or at no less than six-month in­tervals if you use your boat year-round.

Look around the fastenings for signs of leakage, which can lead to water intrusion into cored decks, an expensive and frustrating condition to repair. Check below decks as well, where water drips leave rust stains even on stainless steel fas­tenings. Misuse of the windlass, e.g., using it to absorb the strains of anchoring rather than transferring the rode to a mooring cleat (or nylon snubbed in the case of chain), can overstress the fastenings, break the bedding, and let water in. Don’t ignore leaks.

Inspect all electrical connections for problems. Connections should be clean, corrosion free (corrosion looks like the white deposits you often find on your car’s battery cables), and devoid of burned areas that can result from arcing. If nec­essary, remove the leads (shutoff the power first—there are a lot of amps here), clean the terminals and posts, and re­connect.

Coat the connec­tions with grease, and re-cov­er them with the boots. Look at the motor casing, too; it’s usually painted steel, and if the paint’s nicked, it’ll rust. Touch up the paint be­fore it gets worse.

Also, check the footswitch­es on the foredeck. The hinged caps should open and close easily and have a firm, tight fit for preventing accidental activations. Be­cause the rubber can be damaged by exposure to UV rays, the diaphragms on the switches should be doused with 303 Protectant or another UV shield. The switches can also be silicone-sealed around their edges. Finally, when you use the windlass, don’t make it do all the work. Motor toward the anchor so there’s minimal strain on the rode.

If the anchor doesn’t break out easily, belay the rode and pop it free with the engine, then use the windlass to lift it back aboard. Your windlass will last longer and be happier if you don’t overstress it.

Many of its current gauges—there are some 10,000 models if you count all the available colors and the various brand names they’re sold un­der—feature a little data LCD in addi­tion to a traditional pin and dial. Moreover, the company’s MG2000 sys­tem includes a powerful microprocessor that’s built into a gauge: like casing and able to talk with all sorts of engine con­trol modules (ECMs), then mix the data with other inputs to do calculations like fuel flow, and finally rebroadcast every­thing to a network of less-intelligent gauges.

Which is how I came to be sitting in an I860’s building checking out an elabo­rate, do-everything, touch-screen graph­ical user interface (GUI). ‘Maestro earned its name because this PC-based system is intended to let its user conduct most every imaginable helm function. Picture not just full virtual engine gaug­es and charting with radar overlay and fish finder, but also quad cameras, con­trol of and other equipment, even e-mail and Web browsing. The Maestro project is ambitious, but there are nu­merous reasons to believe that.

Thus Maestro looks and feels a lot like Maptech’s current fourth-generation i3 system, not to men­tion the Sea Ray -Navigator it also pro­duces. That’s good, as over the years Maptech has come a long Way toward making fingertip navigation elegantly easy. And I say that based not just on the demo, but also some real finger-on time trying Maestro’s prototype software loaded into a touch-screen tablet com­puter.

In tall-windowed rooms first used by those uniform seam­stresses, I saw everything from metal lathes and dial printers to circuit board populators, all in action. And it’s ISO 9001 and Gold U.S. military supplier certifica­tions suggest it knows how to make things well.

At any rate, the hardware side of Mae­stro looks good. A custom aluminum casing means the separate processing unit stays cool without fans, and all sorts of connectivity is built in, including a Wi­Fi radio and a PCMCIA slot meant for a high-speed cellular data card. The $8,000 base system includes one sun­light-viewable 12-inch touch screen but will support a second touch screen as well as output via S-video to an onboard TV screen.

The compa­ny claims that its smart products like the MG2000 and Maestro can understand not just ECMs that speak in NMEA 2000, SmartCraft, and J1939 but also J1587, ALDL, and ISO 9141 K-Line. Frankly, I’d never heard of the latter three before, and I think that a number of marine electronics developers are just learning about them, too.

And Maestro is not only significant new product. Antares is a 3.8-inch color dis­play that will bring much of this same digital engine infor­mation to small boats, includ­ing fuel management and even remote control of Jensen Marine stereos. It will first be seen as an OEM product, but expects to re­tail it for retrofits eventually.

Meanwhile, the company has also been developing a series of WatchDog communications products, and the latest 750 model is turning heads. While currently targeted at commercial fisheries, its ability to combine Iridium satellite, GSM cellular, and GPS to provide reliable yet reason­ably priced global tracking, monitoring, and messaging has attracted the interest of serious cruisers.

So, should you happen to boat up the Thames this summer, look for that old factory clinging to the western hank about ten miles north of Long Island Sound?  ’While many of the big marine- electronics brands we all know are con­glomerating (Northstar and Navman recently joined Simrad and Lowrance under the Navico umbrella, for exam­ple), a new one may be coming to life in the little Yankee town of Uncasville.

I used one of these for a couple of years on my GM-powered Hatteras, and it worked fine, albeit slowly—very slowly. If you’re talking twin engines plus gears, plus a genset, pack a lunch when you change your oil, because you’re going to be there a while.

A better solution is to invest in a built-in oil-change system, comprising a reversible electric pump and a manifold of valves plumbed to your engine crankcases, trans­missions, and genset. You pump the used oil into a container, and then move the exhaust hose into a five-gallon pail of fresh oil (where it now becomes the supply hose), re­verse the pump, and refill. The oil is quickly pumped out and in via the oil pan drain, rather than through the dipstick tube. You’ll also have to find a place to dispose of the old oil properly—ask your marina manager or even your dockmates for their advice.

Reverse, X-Change-R, and Jabsco sell oil- change systems to suit multi-engine setups. Installation is straightforward, but drains each engine before pulling the oil-pan plug, or you’ll have an EPA-size cleanup job. I’d bite the bullet and pay the yard—its mechanics are skinnier.

Cheoy Lee’s 78 Sport Motoryacht

On the main deck, the design phi­losophy seems to be just the opposite, offering a little something for every­one. Forward there’s a big country kitchen, while amidships there’s a for­mal dining area with a small wet bar adjoining a spacious seating area in the saloon. Alfresco devotees can choose between a dinette on the aft deck and an L-shape dining area on the flying bridge, near the hot tub. Another instance of less is more relates to ‘weight; the less a vessel weighs, the more speed she’ll deliver for a given power and fuel burn. The entire hull, deck, and superstructure arc cored with PVC foam, and key areas of her structure are reinforced with biaxial and triaxial laminates.

Resin infusion ensures an optimum resin-to-glass ratio and thereby a good strength-to-weight ratio. Amenities aside, it’s performance that’s key in a sport yacht, and the 78 builds on a long-established reputa­tion for offering a good turn of speed and a soft ride, thanks to a deep forefoot and fine entry coupled with a moderate dead rise aft. Partial propeller pockets improve propulsive efficiency while cutting draft to less than 5/2 feet. Twin 1,000-hp Caterpil­lar C18s are standard, but Hull No. I is being fitted with optional 1,400-hp Caterpillar 3412Es that will reported­ly boost top and cruise speeds to 26 and 23 knots, respectively.

Top quality power.
Quality on the CABO 52 begins in the engine room. MAN V12-1550CRM, 1528 HPm, V¬12 common rail injection, turbocharged and after-cooled marine diesel engines nestle into the glistening white gelcoat finished engine spaces, with plumbing, wiring, shafting and control cables neatly run, secured and easily accessed. Power options range from 1500 HPm MTU V-10’s to 1675 HPm Caterpillar C32’s. “One thing’s that unique about the 52 is that even with all the power, I can run the boat by myself,” says Mika. “I can actually, physically, take it out of the dock by myself. There aren’t many boats that size that one person can run. I can do that because it’s very agile, it just turns on a dime. It’s just as maneuverable as my 40. It has very large propellers, 53-inch wheels. It’s just so maneuverable.”

Top quality safety and comfort.
One of the reasons I kept getting larger CABOs is because we’re doing more competitive fishing.
You have to go offshore in the Gulf and stay out for as many as three days, maybe 150 miles offshore. You needed large fuel capacity, efficient fuel economy and everything onboard. A lot of people don’t want to stay onboard for three or four days without coming in. And most importantly, it has to be a safe boat. The Gulf of Mexico may not get hundred-foot waves, but it gets different types of waves that can sink vessels a lot easier than swells. The CABO 52 is perfect.

The CABO 52 is, of course, very comfortable. Some people say there’s no cabin room on an express boat, but we fish with eight guys on overnight trips and we all make it work pretty well. With the two heads, large sleeping quarters and the gourmet galley, it’s very easy to have that many people on long overnight trips.

Introducing the CABO 38 Express:

Why a 38 Foot Express?
CABO wanted to offer an intermediate size boat with the same ride and handling characteristics of a larger boat in a version that would provide greater range and performance for current owners of CABO product under 40 feet as well as owners of larger outboard powered boats who are looking for greater comfort off-shore but not willing to sacrifice performance.

The new CABO 38 fits the bill precisely, the 38 is laid out to fish. The forward cabin is arranged with three single berths for overnight at the Canyons while the salon can accommodate two additional anglers in the upper and lower berth formed by converting the settee. There is also the option of a more conventional island berth arrangement forward for those more inclined to family cruising. On deck, all of the features you would expect to find on an off-shore fishing machine are well laid out and accessible to the cockpit. Tackle and rod storage, sink and live well are all standard and other sport fishing options like freezer plates are available.

The CABO 35 Express is the boat many say established CABO’s reputation for building the highest quality sport-fishing boats available. The new 38 Express is the boat that will guarantee they keep that reputation!